Morte Point is a headland in north Devon, just north of the surf beach at Woolacombe. The name means … well, how good is your French? The Point has a strong tide race and often sees wild weather, kicking up the surrounding reefs. In local lore it is, “the place God made last and the Devil will take first”.
None of this was known to me in August 1999, as I loaded up my sea kayak on Woolacombe Beach. I had a two week solo trip in mind, so shoved in everything possible, including two crates of Lucozade cans. Bags ended up strapped to the decks and crammed between my legs. After two hours of packing, the tide had gone out so I loaded the boat onto my trolley. The axle bent.
As I launched, I noticed that the weather had seriously deterioriated since the morning. Sizeable surf was rolling in, and I fought hard to get out back, various items vanishing from my deck in the process. I also noticed that the ancient nylon spraydeck I was using had a large hole in it. I had no pump, but no opportunity to use one anyway; just then a fierce squall came out of nowhere and attempted to smear me across the reefs off the Point. My boat was so low in the water that I struggled to have any control over direction. It was of course also sinking, as waves broke over the spraydeck. I was so scared that I vomited.
In due course I staggered ashore on the beach at Rockham Bay, the first landing past the Point. I put my tent up on the cliffs and refused to leave this spot for several days, even after the weather cleared.
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